This Average Climber Trained on a Hangboard for 30 Straight Days

This Average Climber Trained on a Hangboard for 30 Straight Days

August 8, 2019 100 By Kailee Schamberger


I did not know this is possible. Hi, I am Geek Climber. I have been climbing for about 10 years. Usually I am able to climb V4s, and in my best
days V5s, but never a V6. I’ve been climbing at this level for about
6~7 years. Whaaat? The reason for the plateau is most likely
that I never attempted to train on a hangboard. Hangboard is a training device that rock climbers
use to train their finger strength. I still have the dream of doing something
like deep water solo, which is exclusive to climbers at the next level, so I decided today
is the day to make a change. I had the opportunity to work with Royal Edge,
which makes high quality hangboards that cater to all level of climbers. I am going to challenge myself to train on
the hangboard for 30 straight days. I am going to test how long I can hang on
each rung, and then do the same test again after 30 days and see how much I improve. The initial test is worse than expected. For the first 1-inch rung, I am able to hang
for about 30 seconds. For the three-fourths of an inch rung, my hang
time goes down to 9 seconds, and for the half-an-inch rung, I can not even hang for a second. In terms of how to train, I did some research
by myself and saw Paul Robinson’s video, mentioning a hangboard workout routine in
the form of 10-second hang, 5-second rest, 5 sets, and 3 cycles. I thought it will work for me buuuuuut Oh, too intense. Ok, come on man. Hang. Ah, can’t do it. So today obviously doesn’t work too well,
so we make some adjustments, I make it a 7- second hang, 7-second rest, 3 sets. After training by myself for a few days, I
realized how little I knew about hangboarding, so I decided to reach out to an expert, Peter,
who coaches the UCSD climbing team, for some advice on training properly on hangboards. When you are hanging, you are kind of just
hanging with your shoulders down by your ears, you want to bring them up. It’s going to be uncomfortable at first, but
theoretically with every single movement you make while climbing, you want your shoulders
to be engaged anyways. You never want to be climbing like this. The reason that you are
climbing like this is when you are resting. Bend a little bit. tiny bit. They should never be straight. You shouldn’t be like locking them off like
this. It should just be a little bit, not 90 or anything, just to take the weight off. You do 10 seconds on 10 seconds off, 10 seconds
on 10 seconds off, and then rest for 4 minutes. Let your body almost fully recovered and then
do it again. Right, and you repeat that maybe 6~7 times.
You can do it every other day, and when you start getting better, start adding in some
weight. Add like, you know, 5 pounds, 10 pounds. Make
it so that you can only hang at least 7 seconds, at most 10 seconds. See how that goes for a month. Take like a
week off; you should be able to see some kind of progress when you come back to it. After
that week off, you will be a little shaky in climbing for maybe about 2~3 days’ worth, but
you are going to get back into it and you are going to be way stronger. Go outside. Find a project that you are really
psyched on. Work on that project. That psych is going to help you train, too. Keep training and if you send it, obviously
you are getting stronger. I never hurt myself on a hangboard. You are
not pulling; you are not doing anything dynamic. You are just hanging. As long as you don’t wrap
those thumbs around your fingers, you will more or less going to be perfectly fine. So I wouldn’t be too concerned about the injury
aspect of the hangboard. If I am feeling really sluggish, I will go
workout first and do some cardio first, cause it’s nothing do with your body really. It’s
your heart rate. You want to get your heart rate up. Once your heart rate is up, you are good to
go. Before you climb, just kind of like pull your
fingers back a little bit, you know; shake them up; warm them up; get some blood in there.
Yeah exactly, nothing is worse than stiff joints; nothing is worse than stiff fingers. Use those long sticks, just kind of like getting
your shoulder dislocated. Get your shoulders warm up because your shoulders are really
important for climbing. So up a little, perfect yes. Right, bring it down just a tiny bit. You
don’t need to really, there you go, perfect, right there. That’s good. Based on what Peter said, I started my training
routine with 10-second hang, 10-second rest, 2 sets, 3 cycles on the top rung. On day 9, I can already feel the difference.
Some of the holds that I generally try to avoid, today when I try to climb on those
holds, those holds actually feel a lot easier. As I continued to train, on day 11 I decided
to move to the middle rung with 5-second hang, 10-second rest, 2 sets, and 3 cycles, and
then I slowly increased the hang time to 6 seconds, 7 seconds, 8 seconds, and eventually
9 seconds. Thirty days flew by really fast and it’s
time for the final test. For the first 1-inch rung, my hang time increases
to 46 seconds, which is a nice 53% improvement. For the three-fourth of an inch rung, my hang
time increases to 35 seconds, which is a whooping 289% improvement, and for the half-an-inch
rung, I am now able to hang for 4 seconds, which technically is an infinite percent of
improvement. The 30-day challenge is over but I plan to
continue hangboard training regularly and I think this is the biggest thing I got from
this challenge. I learned a lot and my fingers become a lot
stronger than I can have ever imagined prior to the 30-day challenge. It’s amazing. Thanks for watching, guys. If you guys want to make your fingers stronger
as I did, make sure to click the link in the video description below and use promo code
GEEKCLIMBER to get 20% off for your first Royal Edge hangboard purchase. Remember, this promo code is only going to be valid for
30 days, so make sure to get it while it’s still valid. I am not sponsored and this promo code is
exclusively for you. And yes, they ship internationally. I will post longer and more detailed videos
about my journey throughout these 30 days on my Facebook page. If you are interested to watch the videos,
check out the video description to follow me on Facebook. And as always, make sure to like and subscribe. See you in the next video.